Pioneering is the cross-linking of wooden poles with ropes. The knots used are called Lashings.
As wood "works, responces to influences such as humidity and temeratuur" and ropes "stretch". Not a single pioneering object
will be dimensionally stable.
Pioneering is done to use objects, particularly in the height you want with these objects not to break down.
If something unexpectedly breaks down, this may never be, through improper use, the lashing.
A few guidelines:
Starting with a clove hitch. When you start a lashing with a clove hitch, then you always work up.
The weight of the structure forces the lashing down. By putting a clove hitch at the bottom of the lashing you prevent
the possibility of poles hanging on one rope.
Just like a pulley, a lashing get stronger as more turns are made. Traditionally, we repeat each individual
"Loop" of the rope at least three times. (One for the construction, one for yourself and one for safety).
In repeating the maxim "rope inside lashing - rope outside lashing" is no nonsense. While making the toss, tension get
divided over all present ropes.
To receive optimum friction between the rope and wood, each run of the rope is to be placed along the previous one, as tight as possible.
Pulling tension in the lashing with the toss is only a few percent of the total strenght of the lashing. A lashing made in the right way
gives strength not the force you put into it on the end.
Square Lashing
A Square Lashing is used to make a connection between two pioneering poles.
Points to pay attention to:
Vertically placed poles, thick edge under.
Clove hitch is to be applied on vertical pole, under horizontal pole.
Loops around the poles need to be followed inside-outside above clove hitch.
Each loop of the rope is to be repeated 3 times.
Diagonal Lashing
A Diagonal Lashing is used to connect, two poles wich do not cross in a right angle. The advantage over a
Square Lashing is that the forces on the lashing are equally divided in the rope.
Points to pay attention to:
Vertically placed poles, thick edge under.
Each loop of the rope is to be repeated 3 times.
Eight-shaped lashing
With an eight-shaped lashing you are able to create a, limited, rotationable connection between poles.
The lashing is used in making objects such a tripod. When the poles are rotated additional forces on the ropes arise.
Be careful not to break the rope.
Using more than three poles increases difficulty, placing the poles into a pyramid is hard. In such cases, you can consider Cloverleaf lashing.
Points to pay attention to:
Vertically placed poles, thick edge under.
Clove hitch is to be applied on vertical pole, under horizontal pole.
Loops around the poles need to be followed inside-outside.
Each loop of the rope is to be repeated 3 times.
Cloverleaf lashing
A Cloverleaf lashing is used to bind pioneering poles together in a top knot. Think four or more. (tepee)
After putting the poles in a position it is advisable to secure the bottom ends of the poles so shifting is not possible.
The lashing can be made while the poles remain in a separate mold (first drawing).
The bars can also be replaced by pioneering poles, which is easier when you rotate 45 degrees.
Points to pay attention to:
Vertically placed poles, thick edge under.
Clove hitch in to be applied on vertical pole, under horizontal pole.
Loops around the poles need to be followed inside-outside.
Each loop of the rope is to be repeated 3 times.
Scaffold lashing
The Scaffold lashing aims to pioneer two poles in length.
The pole wich gets created is to apply vertical.
When you work with tapered wood you need the thin ends to connect. The more observant of readers will
notice that the upper pole results pointing up with the thick end. This is correct.
When the compound is put upward. The base distance between two poles is greater than the
top distance between the same two poles (so again you make a tapered form with the compound.)
When an object is created with this lashing it is wise to cross post it midway between the two ropes. You then shift the
break point to the center of the connection. making the connection at least "double" as strong.
With tapered wood use of a wedge is less needed (we do it anyway).
Points to pay attention to:
Wedge needs to be drivven in from top to bottom.
Sailors lashing
This image I found on the Internet as a solution to create a stable three or four legs. Seen the knot includes the piles, in contrast to the
8-shaped lashing where the poles are located along each other, this might be true. There is a warning concerning the knot. It tightens as the poles
are set. Do not use full strenght while making the knot.
(source ropesandpoles)
Dit plaatje vond ik op internet als een oplossing voor een stabiele drie of vierpoot. Aangezien de knoop de palen omvat, in tegenstelling tot de
8-vormige sjorring waar de palen langs elkaar liggen, Zou dit wel eens een kern van waarheid kunnen bevatten. Er wordt echter wel gewaarschuwd dat
het uiteen zetten van de afzonderlijke "benen" de sjorring verder zal doen opspannen. Om deze reden dient met deze sjorring niet te strak aan te trekken.
(bron ropesandpoles)
Pioneering is the cross-linking of wooden poles with ropes. The knots used are called Lashings.
As wood "works, responces to influences such as humidity and temeratuur" and ropes "stretch". Not a single pioneering object
will be dimensionally stable.
Pioneering is done to use objects, particularly in the height you want with these objects not to break down.
If something unexpectedly breaks down, this may never be, through improper use, the lashing.
A few guidelines:
Starting with a clove hitch. When you start a lashing with a clove hitch, then you always work up.
The weight of the structure forces the lashing down. By putting a clove hitch at the bottom of the lashing you prevent
the possibility of poles hanging on one rope.
Just like a pulley, a lashing get stronger as more turns are made. Traditionally, we repeat each individual
"Loop" of the rope at least three times. (One for the construction, one for yourself and one for safety).
In repeating the maxim "rope inside lashing - rope outside lashing" is no nonsense. While making the toss, tension get
divided over all present ropes.
To receive optimum friction between the rope and wood, each run of the rope is to be placed along the previous one, as tight as possible.
Pulling tension in the lashing with the toss is only a few percent of the total strenght of the lashing. A lashing made in the right way
gives strength not the force you put into it on the end.
